Dixie's BBQ Is More Show Than Substance

The Seattlest blog recently wrote up a favorable post on Dixie's BBQ. I don't think seattle_leora is very up on BBQ, as the review is written in a very wide-eyed, 1st-visit, "WOW!" sort of way. Sure, everyone's entitled to their opinions, but I don't think Dixie's is "divine", "fabulous", or "succulent". I'll use an interview with Dixie and Gene Porter to comment on a few points.

• Popularity: I think Dixie's is popular because they have a gimmic: a very hot sauce called "The Man". That, plus the fact they're close to places of work where people can steal away and get some lunch. That, plus the fact they like to heckle their customers and threaten them with the sauce (which admittedly is fun to watch newbies experience). "We've never advertised" isn't entirely true, either: Dixie's has plenty of bumper stickers and other articles with their logo, and their catering truck is branded as well.
• Other BBQ restaurants: "They don't know how to cook," you say? "Too tough." Excuse me? Dixie, the last few times I've been in your restaurant, your BBQ was too tough. The ribs were slathered in an over-cooked sauce, the meat was too fatty, and the chicken definitely was not tender and falling off the bone. Have you checked out places like Steel Pig or Bourbon & BBQ Grill? They top your food's quality, plain and simple.
• The Man: Gene claims that "heat" is the main ingredient. A friend mentioned that it's somewhat similar to one of Dave's Insanity sauces. It's indeed quite hot. And, the fact that Gene puts it on your food as a test of masculinity and resistance to heat is a bit of a tired custom, if you ask me.

And here's where I get to my main point: when people talk about Dixie's BBQ, more often than not they talk about The Man sauce, or how you'll get heckled in line if you don't know what you want, or how you'll get asked to put a pin on the map to show where you're from. Not that the food is great. It's about the show, the experience, and not about the food.

I'm a big fan of BBQ, and I'm happy Dixie's is open and does good business. After all, one more BBQ place open in a region that has little history in the cuisine isn't a bad thing. Their food isn't bad, but it's not all that great, either, especially when compared to other local options. You can keep The Man, Gene, and I'll pass on your BBQ, too.